Monday, October 17, 2011

galápagos

Hola!  I'm back in Quito from a week in the Galápagos Island, an archipelago 1000 km off the coast of Ecuador.  Here it is by the numbers:

9 islands
1 boat
2 equator crossings
1500+ photos
2 lava-related injuries
3 different tour guides

El Eden, home for the week
Day 1--Isla Lobos
It is sea lion mating season in Galápagos right now, so whenever we landed on an island with sea lions, it was important to be aware of the alpha male's position on the beach or in the water.  The alpha male patrols the beach and protects his harem from other "bachelor" males.  Sea lions are very smelly and make terrible sounds as if they are throwing up.  Throughout the entire week, we saw lots of newborn young sea lions.  How cute!
the tough life of a sea lion
male yellow warbler looking for insects on a baby sea lion carcass

Here, we also saw a few nesting blue footed boobies.  A booby nest consists of a guano (poop) ring, and if the baby steps outside the ring before they are supposed to, their parents will abandon it.
juvenile blue-footed booby in a pretty awkward stage
Day 2--Santa Fe
Here, we got to see the rarest terrestrial vertebrate: Conolophus pallidus, the Santa Fe land iguana.  This iguana is only found on this island in the Galápagos; there is another species found on the other islands.  But I'm not sharing their photos because they aren't that exciting... how about some cute sea lion photos instead?
preciosa!!  a baby sea lion waits for its mama to feed it
the back-bend, my favorite sea lion pose
Crucial tourist snapshot with snoozing sea lions

This was our first snorkeling stop.  It was slightly nerve-wracking to swim with sea lions and sharks...
*gurgle gurgle*

i got to swim with my most favorite animal: the green sea turtle
I'll die happy now


Day 2--South Plazas
This is a small island off the northeast corner of Santa Cruz.  It was my favorite island because the male land iguanas (Conolophus subsritatus) were bright yellow and contrasted wonderfully with the bright red cesuvium that covered the island.  Because there are land iguanas present on this island, the cacti are taller and have spiny trunks to avoid excessive herbivory.  We also saw some swallow-tail gulls.
red cesuvium, Opuntia cactus "trees," and blue sky
look!  dinos? no, land iguanas!
it was pretty darn windy on the cliff, and red-billed tropic birds were whizzing by

Day 3--Santa Cruz, Puerto Ayora, Galápagos National Park
At the the Galápagos National Park Darwin Station, we met two famous tortoises: Super Diego and Lonesome George.  Both are saddleback tortoises, but there are also tortoises with dome shells.  The saddlebacks are found on drier islands (because, like giraffes, they have to reach for their food), and the dome shells are found in wetter environments.

Super Diego, originally from Española, was returned to Galápagos from the San Diego Zoo in 1977 to help revive his species.  He did work and is now the father of around 1500 tortoises, and the tortoise population on Española has been revitalized.
super Diego!
Lonesome George, on the other hand, has not been so successful at reproductive attempts.  He is the last remaining individual of his species, and scientists have been trying to get him to mate for at least two decades.  They have tried many females, both tortoise and human, to try and coax just the smallest bit of interest from George, but to no avail.  Whenever his mates do happen to lay eggs, they don't hatch.
lonesome George

one of Darwin's many finches...maybe a small ground finch?
Santa Cruz is also home to an extensive network of lava tubes.  A long long long time ago, lava was flowing through these tubes, but the outer shell remains and has created tubes.  We got to walk in one!
lava tube

Day 4--Isabela, Sierra Negra
Sierra Negra is a shield volcano with a huge crater on Isabela Island.  There floor of the crater is covered with lava flows of various ages.  The Galápagos is a series of volcanic islands that were formed by a hot spot.  Because the oceanic plate is moving over the hot spot, he oldest islands are in the east, and the youngest are in the west.



Day 5--Isabela, Punta Moreno
The site of the lava injuries!  First, Ali fell through the lava and destroyed her legs.  A few minutes later, I was the next to go down: the lava tripped me and I fell forward, cutting my hand and bruising my leg on the way down.
Ouch!  Lava injuries...
Pahoehoe lava
flightless cormorant drying its wings

Day 5--Isabela, Elizabeth Bay
In the afternoon, we took a panga ride around Elizabeth Bay.  Tourists cannot land here because, well, there is no land...  The area is made up pretty much entirely of red mangroves.  These trees don't need land because they grow on stilt roots.  There were loads of turtles hanging out here.



penguin!
In the evening, Kelly (professor) was giving a lecture on Darwin and the captain came to inform us that there was a whale nearby.  So class was, of course, put on hold to go watch the whale.  It was most likely a Bryde's whale, and it only came up for some air every once in a while.


Day 6--Isabela, Tagus Cove
Sorry folks, no photos from Tagus Cove--they mysteriously disappeared from my memory card and I have been unable to find them anywhere.  So unfortunate because I had a lot of good penguin shots...

Day 6--Fernandina, Punta Espinoza
There were so many marine iguanas warming up in the afternoon sun.  They "sneeze" to excrete excess salt from their bodies.  So we were walking around on the beach, surrounded by sneezing iguanas.  Weird.
marine iguanas soaking up the sun after a low tide lunch
marine iguana swimming
more snorkeling
amazing and beautiful: the green sea turtle

Day 7--Santiago, Puerto Egas
Darwin reported finding many land iguanas here when he visited, but today there are none.  This is possibly a result of competition and nest predation by introduced goats or rats.  The island had a huge goat problem in the past; the goats were killing native and endemic flora and fauna.  They have now been eradicated--park officials used helicopters to spot and kill them...killing one population to save many species.

basaltic lava creates these lovely formations and the black sand beach here
baby sea lion playing with a marine iguana
blue footed booby diving
fur seal!


Day 7--Rábida

red sand beach means felsic lava--the iron has oxidized to create the rusty red color
natasia, my roomie for the week
panga ride back to the boat after snorkeling from the beach
Day 8--North Seymour Island
Last day, how sad!  But the light was perfect for pictures!  It was overcast, so the red pouches and blue feet aren't washed out in the photos.  Frigate bird mating season is almost over, but we were lucky enough to see the classic red pouches on some of the males.

male frigate bird showing off


Saturday, October 8, 2011

fútbol with the family

But first, as promised, a brittle star photo!

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Now onto Friday fútbol with the family!!  Friday was the first day for South American qualifying matches for the 2014 World Cup in Brazil.  Ecuador took on Venezuela at Estadio Olímpico Atahualpa in downtown Quito, and I went with the boys of the family.  It was my second fútbol game, but it was just as overwhelming as the last.  The stuff that goes on in the stadium would never fly in the US--we can thank a lawyer for that...  Fans throw rolls of toilet paper, set off firecrackers, and yell vulgar insults at the opposing team and referees.

Juancho and Quique

Orlando, baking in the hot sun

Ecuador...mi país!

with Daniel and Mario, my brothers!




Tuesday, October 4, 2011

the coast

Hello there! The class is back in Quito after a week and a half on the coast of Ecuador.
Not only did we do a pretty fabulous job of sunning ourselves (some to the point of sun burn and sun stroke...), but we did a lot of learning too!  Don't worry Mom and Pop, I'm making the most of this trip!

We traveled to a handful of towns within the province of Manabí, which is north of Guayaquil and south of Esmeraldas.  For the first few days, the entire class traveled together to the study sites to make general observations and brainstorm for projects.  During the second part of the trip, we had the option to return to the sites to collect data and make more observations.  We mostly visited rocky outcrops at low tide to observe intertidal ecology.
I somehow accumulated 6 projects over the week, so now I have a lot of work to do!

I took about 400 photos, and I picked some good ones to share with you, my faithful readers.
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Los Piqueros

La Hosteria Piqueros Patas Azules (Blue Footed Boobie Hostel) was our headquarters for the week.  Here, we had access to a rocky outcrop at low tides to observe crabs, snails, sea stars, sea slugs, anemones, barnacles, etc.

Not a bad view...

one of our classrooms...

Limpets and their eggs
(the concentric slimy circles are the eggs)

Sea slug!

Gooseneck barnacles indicate the presence of rushing water

g   h   o   s   t
crab

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Puerto López Fish Market


I visited the fish market almost every morning with a bunch of other students and our professors (Kelly and Jaime).  The market in Puerto Lopez is an artesinal market, and what shows up in the market is supposedly all incidental bycatch...though one day we counted over 100 juvenile sharks (mostly hammerheads) in the market.
A few years ago, the market was only held one day a week.  Now, the market operates almost everyday, but Saturdays and Wednesdays are the busiest days.  Over the past few years, the size of the fish brought to the market has diminished significantly, and some species of fish have even stopped appearing altogether.




Magnificent frigate birds try to steal fish out of the bucket, and brown pelicans standby in case something is dropped.
I studied the feeding behavior of frigate birds at the market with Amelia and Natasia.  In a more natural setting, frigate birds tend to be solitary in feeding, but they become very opportunistic at the market when food is generally easy to catch.  We observed several fights between birds in which the bird with the fish was chased a bullied by other birds until the bird threw up the fish for another bird to catch.

De-finning and gutting a marlin...I'll spare you the gutting photos

Maco shark

HUGE MARLIN=$1500 USD

Fisherman and his tuna


gutting tuna

camarones
shrimp


eel

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Machalilla National Park: Los Frailes

In this dry forest, all of the plants look dead and everything is a shade of brown.  So there are no photos of that part...  But the plants were all very interesting and of course demonstrated plant adaptations to low water supply (no leaves, hairy leaves, tough leaves, small leaves, waxy leaves etc.).  Curiously enough we also saw some bromeliad epiphytes like the ones we saw at Hesperia, except these were more pathetic and brown...


a quick dip in the ocean

the most beautiful beach in Ecuador

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Puerto Cayo

I took no notable photos here.  I did a really cool brittle star project here, but someone else has the photos, so I will try to get my hands on them...
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Montañita


This is the hippie/surf capital of Ecuador and is popular among backpackers.  The beach used to have 5 shacks, now there are over 30 and the town is quite touristy.  Closer to the town, sewage seeps into the beach sand and fertilizes it so that it turns green.  Yummy...

another rocky outcrop to explore...this one was coated with anemones
We were usually joined on the outcrops by local people trying to catch fish, snails, octopus etc. to feed their families.

pulpo
octopus

red/brown anemones

cheerio anemones

green anemones and a lovely sea fan

IS THIS REAL LIFE???

my professors: Jaime and Kelly

sea urchins

sea fan and soft coral

I'll take one bread dirty face and one funky please!
Some great English at a wonderful panadería in Montañita